Ford Fusion Door Mirror Wiring Diagram
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Location: N-E Wisconsin
Year: 2018
Trim: SE
Color: Lightning Blue
Engine: 2.0T
Layout: FWD
2014 SE with just the base 200A package and no other options.
I need both switched (for auto dimming) & constant hot (for Homelink).
Was 1st thinking I'd try and tap into the wires at the map light assembly, but it appears that there is just non-switched 12V up there and it is not the ideal spot to tap into anyway. So I just mounted mirror and ran wires down behind the pass side pillar trim and they are currently above the glove box. Just seemed like finding somewhere to tap in behind the dash would be easier.
Looked through this whole section and really did not find where to grab "switched power".
I checked the 12V power outlets and bother were dead until I turned the key on then I had power. However after turning key off I still had power and did read in this forum that they have a delay-off for like 30 minutes or so (just went back out and checked after 20 or so minutes and still have power).
Was thinking maybe the glove box light for constant, but then realized that probably cuts out with the whole interior lighting if it, a door, or the trunk is left open (as all Fords have done since at least '94).
Others were stating tapping in at the fuse block is a real pita, and I can't say it has been easy in any newer car I've owned for quite some time so I did not consider it anyway.
Since the 12V power outlets have a delay, maybe this would be acceptable for the auto dimming "switched power" as I can't see it drawing too much if it is only 30 min.
Any suggestions as to where to grab switched & constant hot under the dash ?? Preferably on the passenger side as that glove box needs to come out to replace the cabin air filter anyway !!
Doug
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Location: N-E Wisconsin
Year: 2018
Trim: SE
Color: Lightning Blue
Engine: 2.0T
Layout: FWD
Well, it is DONE !!
Thanks to "kegobeer" and "Kcdickson" for posting the 2014 & 2015 Ford Wiring Diagrams in the Maintenance forums.
How I found them was a google search, I had not gone in that section before, so I had not seen them when actually on this site.
kegobeer's 2014 diagrams were very nice and helpful (I downloaded all his pdf's), but I did not find an easily accessible location where I could get both constant & acc/run HOT.
Kcdickson's 2015 diagrams were some how messed up, not centered and parts of each drawing were cut off ... but it was one of his posted diagrams that I actually used, which was theIGNITION SWITCHdiagram. This harness has both a CONSTANT HOT and a ACC/RUN HOT in it:
Constant HOT: Yellow/Red Stripe Wire
Acc/Run HOT: Violet/Green Stripe
As most of you probably already know, accessing this area is CAKE ... just snap down the hinged lower dash trim then remove two screws from the lower column cover and pry apart from the upper cover to expose the ignition switch & harness.
The harness going up to the ignition switch on mine had a section where the wires were exposed right below the column so I just used two scotch-lok squeeze-on connectors (once I was certain I found the right two wires using my ohm meter). Added a pair of 1A fuse holders to the two power wires and found a suitable ground screw in this area to the right of the steering shaft as well.
Programing the Home-Link to my early 90's vintage Craftsman Opener took just a few minutes and I could see the mirror already dimming when I moved the car around in the garage.
Wish I had never disturbed the roof console (thinking at 1st this would be the best spot to wire into, however this is no switched power) as I broke one of the forward retainers pulling it down ... even though I was warned to be careful in a post I read somewhere on this forum !!
Doug
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Location: NY
Year: 2014
Trim: SE
Color: Tuxedo Black
Engine: 1.6T
Good to see you found a solution. I'm thinking of a similar idea to install a reverse camera...
Where did you find the auto dimming mirror? My last car had one and I miss it on my Fusion
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Location: N-E Wisconsin
Year: 2018
Trim: SE
Color: Lightning Blue
Engine: 2.0T
Layout: FWD
Cheapest I found the plain Auto Dimming version ... 50-GENK2AM ... was around $75.00 (MSRP $125.00).
Cheapest I found the Auto Dimming with Homelink version ... 50-GENK40A4 ... on the web was $209.00 (MSRP $259.00). Then I found this guy on e-bay selling them for $52.00 shipped. Heck, this is 1/4 of the best price I found anywhere else & $23 less that the one without HomeLink. Mirror and kit appear to be brand new, and his listing said he had more than one.
Here is a link to the Gentex / Mito web site so you can see all the variations:
http://mito-auto.com/index.php?option=co...gory_id=13
I've always installed Donnelly / CIPA 36400 Auto Dimming w/ Outside Temp & Compass on my cars and actually had an extra one that I grabbed out of the van we traded in. They were always less $$ than the Gentex version, plus I never liked that Gentex puts the temp & compass in the mirror glass rather than below the glass in the plastic housing like Donnelly does. Donnelly is also the OE supplier for Ford, where Gentex is for GM (one more reason I like Donnelly).
Since the Fusion has the temperature already displayed in 2 spot and the compass in one, I did not feel like having it in a third spot, nor did I want to run the temp probe all the way out to the front bumper (can be a PITA).
Doug
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Location: NY
Year: 2014
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Color: Tuxedo Black
Engine: 1.6T
I didn't realize you could add an auto dimming mirror so easily. I've been toying with the idea of adding a reverse camera with the integrated display in the rear view mirror. I can't find a mirror with the reverse camera display and auto-dimming for vehicle headlights. They all auto dim the camera display.
Can you please post a picture of the harness you tapped into?
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Location: N-E Wisconsin
Year: 2018
Trim: SE
Color: Lightning Blue
Engine: 2.0T
Layout: FWD
To access the Ignition switch wires you need to remove the lower column cover ... you need a 7MM Hex bit (screw under round trim cover as shown in last pic) and a T-20 Torx bit (screw exposed closer to steering wheel). Use a plastic trim tool to pry the lower column cover from the upper half.
Here are the pics of the install ...
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Location: N-E Wisconsin
Year: 2018
Trim: SE
Color: Lightning Blue
Engine: 2.0T
Layout: FWD
Here's the Ignition Wiring Diagram (thanks Kcdickson) ...
Tapped into the Yellow / Red Stripe wire for the Homelink "constant hot" power
and
Tapped into the Violet / Green Stripe wire for the Auto Dimming "switched" Power
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thanks for the write up. I am about to do a similar install in my car. I already bought a "Micro II add a circuit" from eBay. The problem other users may have been experiencing from the add a circuit is they may have bought the wrong fuse size. The second generation fusions use a Micro2/Micro3 fuses, (Mostly micro2 some micro3). anyways I'll know in a few days is these fuses are plug and play. At that point I'll decide whether I want to fuse tap or wire tap. If these fuses are plug and play I can let you know.
I have a few questions for you that I am hopping somebody can answer.
Q1) The 10 pin connector comes with Two power leads. one for ACC power, and the other for constant 12v power. I see no purpose in a constant power, do to the fact that I don't care for my homelink to work with the car off. So can I connect the two leads together and run one line into an ACC power. Will this way of wiring the mirror short anything, or cause any other problem?
Q2) I am about to take down my dome light in order to do an illuminated door-sill install. based off of your experience do you have any suggestions how to take down the dome light without breaking any clips
Thanks
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Just to follow up, I completed the install running the line to the fuse. the fuse tap was not plug and play, but it only took an additional two minutes of trimming. My bad for assuming others used the wrong fuse tap, This is what I did. I first tested the mirror to see if I can run both powers from one source. So I connected the two power leads to one wire. I then attached that wire to the negative of a 9v battery. I connected the ground wire to the positive of the 9v battery (I know it seems backwards). The mirror completely worked while it was connected the 9v battery. I then tried to stick the fuse tap into the fuse connector. the thing is the fuse tap would not go in. after analyzing the tap I realized that the four corners of the tap was sticking out, while the corners in the fuse where flat. so two minutes with an x-acto knife solved that problem. I then hooked up the mirror to the windshield, and tucked the wires under the headliner. I attached some foam tape to the wire every few inches to keep the wire from popping out. after that I partially opened the A-pillar and fished the line to the fuse box area. I attached the ground to a bolt, and the single power to fuse 36. this is the second to bottom fuse on the left. It is a 15 amp fuse, that only has power when the car is running. I then turned on the car and everything worked just fine. For me running the line to the fuse was the safer choice. Especially since I wasn't sure which group of wires you where talking about. I did pull the bottom of the steering wheel molding down looking for the wire that you pointed out. This did help me access the fuse box a little better, so no harm done. especially since I didn't end up messing with some ignition or power steering wires.
Oh and if one wants to open the overhead council, they may need to first open the sunglasses compartment and then take a 90 degree pick tool and pop the side tabs out first. This may only apply to the 13-15 years. the counsel might have been changed in 2016.
Posts: 89
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Location: N-E Wisconsin
Year: 2018
Trim: SE
Color: Lightning Blue
Engine: 2.0T
Layout: FWD
As my new 2018 does not have an auto-dimming mirror (or GDO), I again searched for another one of these Homlink mirrors.
Found a NEW OEM one on e-bay for $50 and bought it. Well, instead of having the plug built into the base like the last two I bought, it had 10" of wire coming out of the base with a 5-pin plug on the end. And unlike the other two, it did not come with a wiring harness which I did not think much about until after I got the mirror. Was thinking I would cut this plug off and splice the wires, but you really should have some sort of plug up at the mirror.
Well … there are 2 or 3 different harnesses for these mirrors and this 5-pin plug needed is the least common and therefore more $$ than the others (paid $31.15 delivered).
I had bought a pack of 10 add-a-circuit fuse taps when I added a Homelink mirror to a 2013 Focus back in 2017 and wouldn't you know it they are the wrong size for this Fusion. The ones I have are MINI ATM Taps and this Fusion needs Micro 2. So I've got a pack of 10 Micro 2 taps coming along with a Micro 2 fuse assortment (another $27.98 spent) that will hopefully be delivered today.
Already tested the fuse panel out and plan on tapping into Fuse #2 (Lumbar) for the constant hot and Fuse #36 (Auto-Dimming Mirror, Continuous Control Dampening Suspension & Rear Heated Seats) for switched power. I was surprised to actually see a fuse in the #36 location and actually have POWER there since my car has none of these features.
I'll re-post once the install is done.
Doug
Posts: 89
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Location: N-E Wisconsin
Year: 2018
Trim: SE
Color: Lightning Blue
Engine: 2.0T
Layout: FWD
02-23-2019, 05:20 PM (This post was last modified: 02-23-2019, 05:21 PM by stangs-R-me.)
Finished up the mirror install this week on the 2018. The add-a-circuit fuse taps went on fuses #2 & #36 (as I mentioned in post #10) without any issues or modifications required.
Note that the HOT side of both fuses is on the RIGHT so the pigtail needs to be on the left if you want your add-a-circuit to actually be protected by the fuse.
I like this simpler mirror with just the wire harness coming out of it, no need for the plastic wire cover like the other style.
Doug
Source: https://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=2889
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